The catalyst monitor on many Toyota vehicles can be difficult to complete. That’s why it’s important to follow the Toyota recommended drive cycle after performing actions that are known to clear your Toyota’s computer memory.
Remember, all on-board diagnostic monitors are cleared when the battery is disconnected, or when the powertrain control module (PCM) is cleared with a scan tool.
CATALYST MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS
- Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
- Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
- Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
- It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.
Do you have a drive pattern for 2004 Toyota Higlander? I am having a hard time to get the Catalyst ready.
Hi Charlie, sorry for the late reply. Per Toyota, the following drive cycle should run the catalyst monitor on 2004 Toyota Highlanders:
CATALYST MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS
If several reasonable attempts at running the drive cycle fail to complete the catalyst monitor, a problem may exist that is preventing your vehicle from running the monitor to completion. In that case, it may be time to have your vehicle properly diagnosed and repaired by a shop that has the training, equipment, and experience necessary to diagnose and repair OBD monitor issues.
I’ put 400 miles on my 2000 4 runner trying this drive cycle and it still won’t set the CAT or the EVAP monitors
Try not pressing the breaks at all while you are doing the 40-70 mph part. I’ve heard this from a few mechanics.
I have put 4000 highway and city miles on my 2002 Echo, and it will not clear the cat and evap sensor readiness. I have been to four shops for help, but I’ve had no success.
Hi Greg,
It is possible that your 2002 Toyota Echo needs a repair. Common conditions that can prevent the catalyst monitor from not setting are: defective catalytic converter, defective oxygen sensor(s) and exhaust leak. It is also possible that the vehicle isn’t being driven in the proper conditions. If you’re local to Huntington Beach, you can make an appointment with us for a drive cycle/diagnosis.
hi Greg, please make sure your engine thermostat is functioning properly at engine operating temperature. I.e. the engine temperature needle should be in the middle of the gauge and stays there when your engine is warmed up and while driving on the freeway. If not, your engine never got to operating temperature for the CAT cycle to kick in.
2004 Toyota Highlander Drive Cycle for Catalyst Readiness Monitor:
– Allow vehicle to warm up.
– Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 mph for 10 minutes
I have a 1999 camry. I tried the cycle but had a full tank does that matter and I’m in sacramento weather
Hello Marvin,
It is recommended that the fuel tank is 1/4 – 3/4 full. This is important for the EVAP monitor.
Do you have a drive pattern for a 2001 Toyota Solara SL6?
Hi Paulette,
For a 2001 Toyota, I would go with our standard 1996-2002 Toyota drive cycle as found on our website.
Hello What is the best obd2 scanner for my 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder/5SFE vehicle, that cost $15-$25. Please E-Mail me [email protected]
I don’t have personal experience with scanners under $30. We own a few Autel AL319 scanners and loan them out to customers. They have a full color display and a convenient one-touch readiness monitors button.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool
We have a 2000 4Runner with the same issue of the catalyst drive monitor not being “ready.” How can I find the drive cycle for a 2000 4Runner “Per Toyota?” I’ve found several suggestions online, but they differ quite a bit from each other. I figure I better go with the manufacturer suggestion, but can’t find it. Thank you!
Toyota’s TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) number EG003-02 details the correct readiness monitor drive cycles for 1996 to 2002 model year toyota vehicles
Toyota EG003-02
I have a 2000 Tundra and the Catalyst monitor would not go ready even after driving over 400 miles… I had tried several other drive patterns with no luck. I found this link and did the drive pattern #3 as instructed and it worked. Just posting because I had seen many other complaining about the Catalyst monitor…it was a extreme pain in the butt to find a road where I could do the pattern of 40-50 for 3-7min and 35-45 for 7 min. uninterrupted. Due to stoplights I had to rerun the pattern 3 times before it worked. But DO USE THIS GUIDE! Thanks Julius!
Hi Mark,
Glad it worked for you! Thanks for the feedback.
Danny
JUST SMOGS
What’s the drive cycle link you found ?
hi Mark,
how did you come to stop? Do you have to use brakes? i’ve read many posts saying i should not brake or use clutch to down shift.
Thank you.
my car is 2001 toyota celica gts
Hi Thomas,
Braking is absolutely fine for drive cycles. Just try to accelerate and brake smoothly.
This link in not working for me
Hi Jen,
What link isn’t working for you?
Will it work for a 2003 4runner
Is this the same for a 97 tercel
It should be.
What about a 2002 toyota celica? Manual trans
Yes, I believe that the 1996 to 2002 Toyota OBD II Catalyst Monitor Readiness Drive Patterns, should also apply to your 2002 Toyota Celica.
Pingback: Drive cycle questions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE 4cyl, should this work for me too?
Hi Krista,
Although the drive cycle for a 2003 Toyota Camry might be slightly different, it’s worth giving it a try. As long as all the emission systems are working correctly, the readiness monitors should complete without setting a fault code (DTC) by the end of the drive cycle.
2004 Toyota Solara 2.4L 4 cyl engine. Drive Cycle for Evap, Catalyst ?
Hi Tom,
I would go with the standard Toyota drive cycle listed on our website. Catalyst: allow warm up at idle from cold start / drive 55-60 mph steady for 10 minutes. EVAP can be trickier on some models.
After my car had its smog check and passed the engine light came on and I then took to repaire shop and they replaced a sensor . Light was off for about 4 hours and has been on ever since. the car runs fine and the shop has no idea what problem is. HELP
Hi Sandra,
What is the year and model of the vehicle? What is the fault code (ie P0135)? Which sensor did your mechanic replace?
Danny
Just Smogs
Hi Sandra,
A couple of questions … What is the year and model of the vehicle? What fault code (ie P0135) before and after the repair? Exactly what sensor was replaced?
Danny
Just Smogs
Hello,
Do you know the drive cycle for an Evap Monitor for a 2001Toyota Camry LE V6?
Hi Luke,
The EVAP Monitor is not required to be complete (Ready) in order to pass the California smog check. According to my software the EVAP monitor drive cycle for a 2001 Toyota Camry is to: Drive at 45 mph for 5 minutes (steady) then decelerate to 25 mph for 15 minutes then back to idle.
Danny
Just Smogs
where do I do that at?
If evap is not required in California why is it listed and catalyst monitor can’t get it to the ready cycle its a 2000 toyota camry
Catalyst monitor drive cycle for 2005 Toyota rav4?
Hi Jonathan,
2005 Toyota Rav 4 catalyst monitor drive cycle is usually relatively simple. We have success running them at 55-60mph (w/ a/c off) for about 10 minutes.
Good luck,
Danny
Just Smogs
What is the drive pattern for the Catalyst monitor for a 2005 Toyota Rav4?
Hi Jonathan,
2005 Toyota Rav 4 catalyst monitor drive cycle is usually relatively simple. We have success running them at 55-60mph (w/ a/c off) for about 10 minutes.
Good luck,
Danny
Just Smogs
Hello, I have been working on my drive cycle for weeks. Its just taking my catalytic converter a long time to be ready. No engine light for the past 500miles. Recently had a thermostat replaced. I drove 55mph for 200miles…Speed to 70mph and cruise down to 15mph with no brakes (2 times.)
Toyota Solara 2003 V6. Please help, as I will take your advice for this upcoming weekend (drive cycle.) Cheers and Happy Holidays!
Hello Sonny,
First, I would double check that the proper thermostat was installed. For some vehicles, a precondition for the catalyst monitor to complete is for the vehicle to reach a particular temperature. We have diagnosed and repaired defective (or incorrect) thermostat issues that have prevented readiness. A basic scan tool and infrared thermometer are required to diagnose thermostat/ect sensor issues.
Good luck,
Danny
Just Smogs
Just Smogs Danny and Co. You guys are great, will try this with my 2002 Sienna. Cheers, Terry
Hey guys, what should be drive pattern for 2001 toyota solara l4? The cat monitor wont just come on..
Hi Alan,
Toyota drive cycles for catalyst monitors usually consist of driving the vehicle at highway speed (55-60 mph) for about 10 minutes (A/C off).
Be aware that some vehicles have trouble setting “Ready” for the cat monitor if the converter is slightly defective. We’ve had customers drop their vehicles off for our drive cycle service after hundreds of miles driven without success. After our technician drives the vehicle a pending P0420 or P0430 DTC appears in the system, indicating a potentially defective catalytic converter. With that said, more often than not, the monitor is set without fault codes if you follow the procedure above.
Good luck,
Danny
JUST SMOGS
Just bought a used 2007 RAV4. Catalytic Converter, Evap System, and Oxygen Sensor showing not ready. Tried twice. No check engine codes. What is the drive cycle for 2007 RAV4?
Hi Angela,
Toyota drive cycles are generally fairly simple as long as there aren’t any preexisting conditions with the vehicle. We usually start the vehicle in the morning (A/C off) and allow the vehicle to idle for 10-15 minutes. Then we drive in stop and go traffic to our local highway and drive for about 10 minutes at 60 mph. This process usually completes all monitors (except EVAP) after a few tries. For most Toyotas, we find that we do not need to follow the manufacturer specified drive cycle exactly. Remember, your Rav4 will still pass a smog check even with EVAP monitor “Not Ready”.
Good luck!
Danny
JUST SMOGS
Huntington Beach
I have a Toyota Highlander 2004 having an issue passing SMOG. The last SMOG check says that OBDii not ready and I was told by my mechanic to perform the drive cycle. I tried to do it to the best of my ability but still not clearing it. Some shops want to replace the catalytic converter at a hefty price that I can not afford. Some shops are telling me just to drive it. I have an expired tag and I do not know what else to do. Even the dealer says that it is not the catalytic converter if it is not showing P0420 code. they have change airfuel sensor and clean the throttle body but this did not help.
Hi Jorge,
We feel your pain. We have a 2003 Toyota Matrix here with an incomplete Catalyst monitored and are unable to drive cycle it successfully. There are no pending or current P0420 DTCs and the rear oxygen sensor is relatively flat (most of the time). At this time we’re stuck.
The first thing you should do is pay your DMV registration to prevent any further late penalties. Also, the Auto Club (AAA) or DMV can provide you with a Temporary Operating Permit (TOP). The TOP will allow you to drive the vehicle for another 60 days legally.
On the bright side, we just completed a 2001 Toyota Solara (235,000 miles) catalyst monitor. The customer drove the vehicle for hundreds of miles with no success. So there is hope!
Good luck!
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla and just had the catalyst serviced and 02 sensor replaced and and 5 of the 7 emissions say ready, the catalyst and Evap are the ones left to say ready how do i run a proper drive cycle?
Hi Lorena,
For a 2000 Toyota Corolla if the catalyst is operating correctly, the catalyst monitor should run when driving at about 55mph for 10 minutes. What was done to service the catalyst?
Danny
Just Smogs
The manufacturer drive cycle is designed for a ‘properly’ operated engine. If your engine is not, then the drive cycle will not work. My car is 2001 Toyota Celica GTS. I spent a month observing and investigating why my CAT monitor was not ready and root caused to the defective thermostat. I replaced the thermostat and went to pickup a spare tire. After 50 miles, all monitors were ready.
Before that, I drove over 400 miles following the manufacturer drive cycle many times without hope. The first requirement of the drive cycle is that your engine must be at the operating temperature (179F in my case). But what it didn’t say is that your engine temperature must remain constant at the optimum temperature of 183F until you turn off your engine. This means your thermostat must be in perfect condition in adjusting its valve to control the coolant flow to radiator for heat release as the engine heats up. If this condition is not met then your fuel will not burn cleanly causing engine problems and will kill the CAT. After replacing the thermostat, my scanner reads ECT (engine cooling temp) at 183F once it warms up until I turn of the engine.
I didn’t follow the drive cycle at all. Just drove to a nearby town to pickup my spare tire for a round trip of around 50 miles. All monitors were ready when I came home.
By the way the thermostat I replace is the one I ordered for my daughter’s car which is 2008 corolla. It has the label 82C (179.6F) on it.
only going to 168. changing thermostat now.
I have a 2002 Camry V6 XLE for which the catalytic monitor refused to run following some battery work. I attempted this and a couple of other drive cycles I found online numerous times with no success.
The link dewok provided seems to be dead, but I found the Toyota bulletin for Toyota Drive Cycles.
In reading this through you’ll notice one of the pre-test conditions is that the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) must eventually get over 80 degrees celsius. My OBD2 monitor showed I was never getting close to that. A bit more research later I figured I needed my engine coolant thermostat replaced, so I took the car into the shop and had that done ($250 job).
Following that, the ECT ran over 80. I drove about 40 miles over a handful of trips, and BOOM, my monitors were ready.
The ECT thing above may not be terribly uncommon if you drive a 20 year old car like me. I strongly suggest you get an OBD2 monitor to see how your car is running so you can diagnose little one-off issues like this that might save you from having to run through these drive cycles countless times.
Greetings, I tried both links referenced on this tread but couldn’t access the site or content for Toyota’s TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) number EG003-02. Can you please post the actual PDF?
Thanks,
2002T4RSR5_George
Hi George,
Here you go!
Toyota EG003-02
Danny
Just Smogs
good tip . Im gonna check it on my gts that wont get to ready either .thank you
Danny,
My ex-husband is having the same problem with his 2003 Toyota Spyder. I found your website and gave him your number. He’s ready to wreck the car and call it a day. Hope you guys can help him You’re the only shop out there answering questions on line for ppl. That’s really good of you!! Thank you!!!
Hey guys,
Any experience with an 01 Toyota Sienna CAT reset? I’ve driven it about 200 miles, spent 30 minutes between 55-65, and had it tested several times with no luck…
What’s the drive cycle to use for a 2005 Toyota Corolla?
Hi Nirav,
Just do the Toyota drive cycle listed in this post for 1996-2002. It should do the job.
Thanks,
Danny
JUST SMOGS + REPAIR
i have a 2000 toyota tundra replaced thermostat all 4 O2 sensors and both Catalytic converters and cat monitor still not ready!! Help!
Hi, what’s the drive cycle for a 2004 Toyota Avalon? Tried several other “hacks” but none seem to work.
2003 toyota sienna xle drive cycle for catalyst converter monitor to reset? having trouble
Hi Paul,
The drive cycle attached to this post should work for your 2003 Toyota Sienna. We have found that a deteriorated catalytic converter can sometimes prevent the catalyst monitor to complete.
Hello. Do you know if one can put a car on a lift and simulate the drive cycle instead of actually driving the car?
Thanks so much in advance.
Hi Stacy,
I’ve never heard of a drive cycle being successfully completed by driving the vehicle on a lift. I believe that most cars need to be under some sort of load. Some shops will complete drive cycles on dynamometers. With that said, I have personally completed a drive cycle (smog ready) on a pre 2000 vehicle, simply allowing the vehicle to warm up at idle from a cold start.
Thanks much for the quick reply. I don’t know how the ECU differentiates load or no load. I’m more concerned about a potential mishap while doing the drive to complete a cycle.
I’m going to put mine on a lift and see if it would do the trick.
Thanks again,
Stacy
What is the drive cycle for a 2015 Prius Two? Thanks.
Hi Sean,
I don’t have a specific drive cycle for a 2015 Prius. We primarily focus on vehicles that are 8 years and older.I would imagine it would be similar to the 2002 Toyota drive cycle posted on this site.
What is The Drive Cycle For A 2000 Toyota Echo? Thank You Much For Your Help And For The Information.
Martin
I have a 2006 Toyota Camry that I have driven for 400 miles. The Catalyst Monitor and Evap monitors are not ready.
The. I did install a new battery but the car has been 400 miles since the new battery was installed. There are no current or pending codes, What is the drive cycle to get the monitors ready. Thanks for you help
Hi Ken,
On these Toyotas, 50% of the time we set the monitors just by driving the factory drive cycle. The other 50% of the time, we end up replacing a catalytic converter or sensor. For the catalyst monitor it is important to drive at a steady 50-55 mph for period of time (no a/c).
Thanks for the info, but what is the sequence for the factory drive cycle to set the catalyst and evap monitors for a 2006 Toyota camry
Hey Ken,
You can use the drive cycle instructions for 1996-2002 Toyotas. I currently don’t have access to the exact drive cycle for the 2006 Toyota. If everything in the vehicle is working correctly, Toyotas are generally fairly simple to complete.
What is your temperature gauge showing? If it is below the center, your engine never gets to operating temperature – and your coolant thermostat needs to be replaced.
How about a 2004 sienna? Catalyst monitor not running.
Do I have to start from cold and warm up or can I start the 60mph test already warmed up?
I had replaced my thermostat 2 months ago and I assume I got the correct one but what temp should I be at? 180 F?
Hi Kerry,
We always allow the vehicle to warm up from a cold start (overnight prefered). Engine temperature warmed up to 180 F should be just fine.
Update: I did the drive cycle, 13 miles at 57 mph, no braking. It worked. The catalyst monitor reset to “pass”
Here is my horror story:
car 2002 toyota corolla le
miles 170k ish
back story:
July 2019 car had a check engine light come on. replaced o2 sensor single bank. found random drive cycle online. all montiors ready except cat and evap. cat got ready with first part of drive cycle and check engine light came on. finished second part of drive cycle and evap was ready and check engine light went away. car passed smog and everything was good.
july 2020 some meth head steal my car battery and all monitors reset. I get new battery and check engine light is on. buy new 02 sensor and replace again. try to find drive cycle info and cant seem to find the right one. try 5 different drive cycles listed on the internet and get everything except evap monitor to ready. check engine light comes on after cat monitor is ready. Cant get car to be smogged. Any ideas?
Hi Devin,
More info is needed. What is the fault code for the check engine light? Is it P0420 (catalyst efficiency DTC)? The P0420 is relatively common for Toyota Corollas. Based on the vehicle’s mileage, it is possible that the catalytic converter is deteriorating.
Hi Dewok, I have a 2000 toyota solara. Shows the cat and evap monitors not ready. Failed smog and i’ve followed several drive cycle and have out 700-800 miles but the monitors are still not ready. Any advice? Feel like i’ve done everything i can and have tried everything. Thanks
Hello Hung,
“Not ready” CAT & EVAP monitors are somewhat common for Toyotas. If your Toyota has high mileage (or a previous mechanical issue, ie misfire), there is a possibility that the catalytic converter is deteriorated (not as efficient as it should be).
In our experience, about 50% of the time we successfully run a successful drive cycle. The other 50% of the time, we repair the vehicle (most commonly a new converter).
Hi,
I have about 140k miles on it. Unfortunately, I’m in Norcal, otherwise I would bring it to you guys. Any idea what would be reasonable cost to have a shop to try to successfully run the drive cycle and the cost to replace the cat?
We currently charge $118. I think we are a bit low considering how much time this can sometimes take.
perhaps a silly question, will driving to the freeway to run the drive cycle, after i have warmed up the vehicle at home affect the process? 2000 4runner with 245K. Cat and evap monitors not ready.
Hi Mark,
The freeway is what you need to complete the cat monitor. We recommend driving a steady 55-60 mph for about 10 minutes.
I have 1998 Camry LE V6. Trying to get Catalyst Monitor ready after battery replacement. I followed above drive cycle instructions many time but no success. I noticed the coolant temp drops to around 163F when driving from 176F (idle). The air temp is 46 (NE winter). No confirmed or pending codes. All other 7 monitors are ready. How do I get this monitor ready in winter time? Please advice.
hi Anil, thats a big sign that your thermostat may not perform properly. Once the engine warm up, the temp should remain constant. Meaning even at idle the thermostat should open to let the coolant circulate bet. radiator and engine. When you drive off, the temp gauge should remain constant at the middle of the gauge. This behavior is required for the engine to be heated at the right temperature to get the CAT ready.
How do I get the Evap monitor to run on my 2001 Camry Toyota 4 Cyl? What is the proper procedure. been trying for 2 months, . Will it pass Illinois smog check with only that evap monitor incomplete?
I own a 2004 Toyota Avalon. We’ve driven 100+ mi and the EVAP and CAT is still “not ready.” Been to the dealership and all they said was to “drive it around at 60 mph to 20mph.”
Any help would be highly appreciated!
Hi Rico, you don’t have to worry about setting the EVAP monitor. Focus on completing the catalyst by allowing the vehicle to warm up at idle (15 -20 minutes) first thing in the morning with AC off. Drive easy to a highway and then maintain 55 mph for 10 minutes.
Hi does this apply for a 1997 toyota avalon? Thank you
Hi Hugo,
Yes, the attached Toyota drive cycle is applicable for completing readiness monitors for your 1997 Toyota Avalon.
I have Toyota corolla 2014 . How many Drive cycle in one day I can perform to get CAT monitor ready. If more Than one cycle then how long I have to wait to start next cycle . Should I have to shut off engine in between drive cycle
Will my toyota camry pass smog with the hcat and air monitor says N/A
Hello Isaias,
Yes, you can disregard monitors that are N/A.
Either the vehicle’s computer does not monitor that system or the vehicle is not equipped with that system (ie vehicle does not have air injection).
We recently bought a 1997 Landcruiser from Washington state. We live in California. The county it was in in Washington didn’t require smog, so the car may never have been smogged. Obviously, in order to register it in California we need to get the car smogged. We had a bunch of work done to the car upon purchase, including clearing the check engine light and all codes, and replacing the EGR Valve, EGR Vacuum Solenoid and oxygen sensor. Disassembling and performed EGR Port Cleaning Service. Replacing water temperature sensor. Since then we’ve driven the car about 200 miles. Have tried the suggestions here about going 10+ miles at a steady speed on the highway between 50-70 after warm up, with no AC, but the cat readiness reading is still incomplete. At this point, I’m out of ideas and am planning to take the car back to the shop that did all the work for us and ask them to figure it out, but thought I’d at least ask if there are any other suggestions. Perhaps the cats are just going bad? I hope not, as we’d prefer not to have that additional cost after all the other money we’ve already put into the car. The car runs great, runs at a steady temp. Any help would be much appreciated.
I have 03 Lexus es 300 with code p0420 bank 1, in the ready test I get all green check marks except hcat, evap, and if I recall egr maybe….I have absolutely no symptoms except that it goes through alot of coolant. Odometer is @ 190000 . So I own the Autel al329 basically my question is what does the circle with a line through it in the led ready test screen mean. My check engine light is steady. I have heard 2 different answers first being, my car is not compatible with that test….2nd I need to do the precise Toyota/Lexus drive cycle to activate and complete the hcat, and the other 2 systems. Thx in advance would appreciate a detailed answer.
Hello John,
You need to focus on diagnosing and repairing the P0420 DTC.
Most likely the HCAT is inactive on your vehicle. The grey circle with a line through it means that your vehicle isn’t monitoring for that particular component. As for the EVAP, you don’t need to worry about this monitor either. The smog system will overlook a “not ready” EVAP monitor for your vehicle during an inspection. Generally the only time you need to worry about monitors is after you’ve successfully remedied all DTCs.
Good luck,
Danny
JUST SMOGS
so when none of this works, then what?
Hello Milhouse,
Next step would be to bring your vehicle to a professional for additional diagnosis. We have found that fifty percent of the time we are able to complete a drive cycle per manufacturer instructions. The other half of the time, the vehicle requires a repair (sensor, exhaust repair, catalytic converter, etc).
Sounds like you know what you are doing, wish I lived near you, would take my care there but I am in the High Desert of CA. Have a 2001 Solara SLE V6, All pass but cat not registering, no codes. Drove twice 50 miles on freeway @ 56 & @ 58 mph. with cruise control. Do the tests have to go in sequence? If so what sequence? That is, do I have to clear and “start over” with the above procedure, or can I “continue” to shoot for trying to get the cat to pass? Found this site: https://www.obdautodoctor.com/tutorials/obd-readiness-monitors-explained/ that says there are two types, continuous and non-continuous, do you know what monitoring this car does?
Confirming the importance of perfectly working thermostat to complete catalyst drive cycle. My thermostat seemed to work well but I couldn’t get catalyst test completed. After replacing it took one drive cycle per eg003-02 to complete the test. Thanks guys for maintaining this website!
Hope your having a good day ! 2002 Toyota Rav4 , the link provided indicates drive pattern #4 for the catalyst monitor to set . Would you suggest that or the 55mph drive cycle and can i use the cruise control for either drive cycle ? Thank you
Hello,
If the catalytic converter(s) and sensors are working properly and as long as there are no exhaust leaks, a 2002 Toyota Rav4 should set the catalyst monitor by simply driving at 55mph. This is based on my experience. As for cruise control, I don’t use it. I keep a very steady foot. Although, one of our technician recommends cruise control to our customers and we have heard positive feedback.
Good luck!
For all those people who can’t get either the Catalyst test OR the Oxygen Sensor test to run (but can get the other one to run) there may be a really good explanation for this: The instructions in this manual: https://www.tcorolla.net/oxygen_sensor_monitor_front_and_rear_o2s_system_-527.htmlare *REVERSED*, and my understanding is that many Toyota cars use that manual (not just the Corolla). Performing the Oxygen Sensor test instructions in the manual will cause the Catalyst test to run, and the Catalyst test steps listed will cause the Oxygen test to run.
If you can’t get the Catalyst test to run, perform the steps in the Oxygen sensor test. Basically, idle for 2 minutes. Do these two things 10 times: above 25 mph for 50 seconds, idle for 40 seconds. If you can’t get the Oxygen test to run, perform the Catalyst test steps. Drive 40 to 55 mph for 3 minutes, drive 35 to 45 mph for 7 minutes.
I can’t *guarantee* that this is true for every car that uses these tests, but it is *definitely* true for my 2008 Matrix. I know this because I spent a month trying to get the Oxygen Sensor test to run *without* the Catalyst test, and over, and over the opposite would happen; the Catalyst test would run before the Oxygen test. I bought an ODB reader so that I could check and reset the readiness tests repeatedly, and took detailed notes and eventually noticed the pattern. Now I can make the Oxygen test run without the Catalyst test every time I try it, on the first try.
Note that I’m not arguing that this is the proper methodology for the car to perform these tests, and I can’t even guarantee that the computer is reporting the results correctly, but in terms that are strictly based on observations; the computer reports results for the Oxygen test when you have completed the Catalyst steps, and vice versa.
In case anyone is wondering *why* I wanted to get the Oxygen test to run before the Catalyst test, here’s a funny story: My Toyota Matrix, which is in good condition and passes all emissions tests, has some unknown problem that causes a something-or-other threshold to turn on the “check engine” light every time the Catalyst test runs. I live in Massachusetts, and I must get it to pass inspections every year, and it will not pass inspections unless both: a) The readiness tests have run, and b) the check engine light is off. But there’s a loophole for those unfortunate people who just cannot get all of the tests to run. You are allowed to pass the inspection if ONE of the tests has not run. So now, once a year, I reset the readiness tests, drive all the patterns *except* the Oxygen test (starting and stopping several times at low speed), but INCLUDING the one where you go over 40 to 55 mph for 3 minutes and 35 to 45 mph for 7 minutes which is *supposed* to run the Catalyst test, and the check engine light stays off, and all of the tests have run EXCEPT the Catalyst test. I take the car to get it inspected, and it passes.
After the inspection, during my slow start and stop drive back home which is supposed to trigger the Oxygen test, the check engine light comes on, and, *surprise* the Catalyst test has now run.
I don’t condone using this loophole to leave your car in disrepair. In my case, the car passes emissions tests despite this catalyst threshold problem, the exhaust is in good shape, and replacing the parts that would likely finally cause this test to pass would cost over $1000, and I don’t have extra money. Luckily, most people reading this are just trying to get all their readiness tests to run anyway. I hope this helps. And I hope Toyota tells everyone that this manual is backwards.
Like so many others here, I am having problems getting my 2001 Toyota Tacoma to get past the NOT READY error for my catalytic converter. 2 things: could you explain a bit about how a scan tool can completely reset your car and make it necessary to go through this process again. Secondly, do you have any recommendations on Android/iOS based tools that work with a generic ODBII adapter.
Thanks
-dr
First, Thank you very much to MasterTech for posting “1996 to 2002 Toyota OBD II Catalyst Monitor Readiness Drive Patterns” and to Todd Cesere for his insightful observation about the drive patterns needed to trigger Catalyst and Oxygen Sensor monitors being REVERSED in the software on his Toyota Matrix (and probably many other Toyota vehicles).
One must suspect that this reversal may ultimately be responsible for what MasterTech wrote in the very first sentence of his original posting!
I can’t help wondering (but have no way to prove) that this could be responsible for some unnecessary $1000 repairs, where the mechanic gave an estimate for replacing the catalytic converter bc it’s monitor “couldn’t complete”, but after the replacement he’d subcontracted was in place, it still couldn’t complete until he got the idea somehow to also replace an O2 sensor, but being out the money for the converter, he left the estimate as is!
I bought a scanner recently to check an enginee cheeck light which reported a P0753, but also showed that the CAT still hadn’t completed after the converted was replaced 2 years ago. My trans fluid looks full and clean so it looks like I’ll need a new solenoid. Until this is fixed (and MIL is off), I won’t be able to check whether the “wrong” drive pattern will allow the CAT monitor to complete.
The 1994 and 1995 Camry with the 1MZ-FE engine have OBD2 connectors and labels marked “OBD II Certified”, only the vehicle menu on the scanner tool I recently bought starts at 1996.
Choosing “1996” Camry 1MZ-FE seems to work with a 1995 Camry, but I can’t find Drive Pattern info for anything prior to 1996 anywhere on the web. Until I could find either documentation for 1996 or an assertion that drive patterns documented for 1996 would work for 1995, it seems I’d have to assume the latter purely on faith.
Would you happen to know whether Camry drive patterns for 1995 might by chance actually be the same as for 1996?
Hi Michael,
Here in California, 1995 and older vehicles do not require OBD II testing for smog inspections. I’m not sure why one would worry about completing a proper drive cycle for a 1995 vehicle. But I imagine the drive pattern is similar to that of a 1996 Toyota Camry.
I have a Toyota Sienna 2002 that has problems resetting the CAT and EVAP…… in N. California so focusing on getting CAT to clear. Solved a problem with the thermostat and ran the cycle and have a pending P0420 code (CAT system efficiency below threshold Bank 1). So at least I got a code (hate it when there is no code) which I interpret as the computer ran the CAT test and decided the CAT isn’t working. SO now I am looking into a new CAT. But it seems like there is more than 1 CAT …….. there are 3? I was expecting to change the one in line with the muffler with a Walker Calcat CARB 82788, but am looking for advise. When you change out CATs…….do you typically change just the “main” one? What about the others like the Walker 81899 or 81864? These must be upstream of the “main” CAT. Thanks for any advise……