Engine Mounts

Engine mounts (Also known as motor mounts) are designed to isolate engine vibration from the rest of the car. Most engine mounts are solid rubber blocks; however, the engine mounts in some cars are hydraulic (liquid filled).

When to replace engine mounts

img_0763Several years ago, prior to inspecting a longtime customer’s car, I noticed that a hose at the top of the car’s engine was disconnected. Since I hadn’t started the smog inspection, I did the customer a favor and reconnected the hose.

I closed the hood and performed the dynamometer (dyno) portion of the smog inspection. At the conclusion of the dyno test, I got out, opened the hood, and saw that the same hose was once again disconnected.

The vehicle had broken engine mounts that allowed enough movement that the hose going to the EVAP canister was disconnected every time the engine moved!

Most manufacturers do not publish suggested replacement intervals, engine mounts should be inspected regularly.  Under harsh driving conditions they can fail in as little as a year, but most often begin showing signs of wear that include cracking and dry rot after five years.

How can I tell if my engine mounts are bad?
Damaged Engine Mount

Damaged Engine Mount

While a little bit of cracking is normal, stretched and broken engine mounts should be replaced as soon as possible. As your engine mounts begin to degenerate or stretch, you may notice excessive vibration especially while your vehicle is idling.

During certain driving conditions worn and damaged engine mounts will allow the engine to shift and move in the engine to such an extent that it can actually “bang” against body components such as the hood or firewall and in extreme cases the engine can actually shift out of position or even dropYou may even notice that some of your hoses wont stay connected

 

 

Engine Change Guidelines

According to the California Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR), “Engine changes continue to present problems and challenges to car owners and technicians“.

Instead of an engine change (a.k.a swap), BAR recommends rebuilding and reinstalling the original engine, transmission, and emissions configuration.  However, if that is not possible, the following is a list of things to keep in mind.

Remember, these are guidelines for performing engine changes – not certification procedures. All exhaust emission controlled vehicles with engine changes must be inspected by an official Referee station and must have a Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) Referee label affixed to the doorpost.

Certification Standards

California Certification

emissions-label-caA federal (49 state) engine cannot be used in a California certified vehicle.

You can determine if your vehicle is a California certified vehicle by checking the vehicle’s under-hood emissions label.

Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Engines

While especially popular with Honda enthusiasts JDM engines are not a legal option.  JDM engines are easily identified and will not be certified by the BAR Referee.

Certification Standards

Make sure the engine and emission control configuration is certified to the year of the vehicle or newer, and to the same or a more stringent new vehicle certification standard. The rule of thumb is that you can move forward but you can’t go backwards.

Engine Classification

Lamborghini engine

You can’t put this in Lamborghini engine in your pickup truck unless you’re hauling it in the back.

Don’t mix engine and vehicle classifications which will degrade the emissions certification standards.

  1. A heavy-duty engine cannot be installed in a light-duty exhaust-controlled chassis even if they have the same displacement.
  2. A Pickup truck engine cannot be installed in a passenger car.
  3. Non-emissions controlled engines such as industrial or off-road-use-only engines may not be placed in any exhaust emissions controlled vehicle.

Computer Controls

If a computer controlled engine is installed in a non-computer controlled vehicle, the “Check Engine Light” (Service Engine Soon, MIL, etc), diagnostic link connector (DLC), wiring harness, and all sensor and switches necessary to make the system fully operational must also be installed.

Also, the same rule would apply if you are installing an On Board Diagnostic II engine in a vehicle previously certified to earlier standards (OBD I etc).  Remember, you can add, but you can’t subtract.

Emissions Control Configuration

Mixing and matching emission control system components could cause problems and is generally not allowed. Engine and emission control systems must be in an engine-chassis configuration certified by the California Air Resources Board (ARB) or U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The engine must meet or exceed the requirements for the year and class of vehicle in which it is installed.

California Bureau of Automotive Repair

Vehicles introduced for sale in California and elsewhere in the United States are subject to strict testing and emissions certification standards. Even a minor change can result in the increased harmful gas emissions, and violate state and federal law.

The installed engine and host chassis must retain all original emission control equipment. Diesel-to-gasoline conversions must have all gasoline engine and chassis emission control systems installed (Fill-pipe restrictor, EVAP system, etc).

Engine Modification and After-Market Parts

No internal or external engine modifications (cams, pistons, intakes, etc.) may be performed unless the parts are ARB-exempted or EPA-certified for use in the installed engine. Refer to ARB’s Aftermarket Parts Database of Executive Orders to search for exempted aftermarket parts.

Just Smogs® Closed Labor Day

The word "Labor Day" with a US flag in the background.

Have a Safe and Happy Labor Day

In observance of the Labor Day holiday, Just Smogs® in Huntington Beach will be closed on Monday, September 5, 2016.

As always, we will be open from 8:00 am – 3:00 pm on Saturday September 3rd and closed on Sunday.

We will resume our normal weekday schedule (8:00 am to 5:30 pm) on Tuesday, September 6, 2016.

BAR OIS Testing And Invalid Monitor Information

On August 1, 20016, the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) implemented a change in the BAR-OIS testing procedure that may result in a new type of smog inspection failure.

What is BAR-OIS testing?

just-smog-check-huntington-beach-3-bays-800x480The BAR-OIS is the Smog Check equipment required when inspecting most model-year 2000 and newer gasoline and hybrid vehicles and most 1998 and newer diesel vehicles. The system consists of a certified Data Acquisition Device (DAD) and off the shelf equipment, including a computer, bar code scanner, and printer.

During a BAR-OIS smog inspection, the DAD collects data from your vehicle’s Power train Control Module (PCM), or as most people call it, “The Computer”.

The data collected by the DAD includes diagnostic trouble code information (Mode $03), Vehicle Information (Mode $09), and the current monitor information from Mode $01. Other data is also collected, but for the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on Mode $01 monitor information.

OBD II Monitor Readiness

Image of instrument cluster including "Check Engine" lightOBD II Monitor Readiness is a key element of the BAR-OIS smog inspection process.

Most model year 2000 and newer gasoline powered and hybrid vehicles can pass the BAR-OIS inspection if EVAP is the only incomplete monitor; otherwise, all other OBD II monitors must be complete.

While most vehicles behave as expected, some vehicles do not respond with proper OBD monitor information from the PCM, or the transmission computer responds instead of the engine computer.

In most cases cycling the vehicle’s ignition (off/on) will solve the problem, but occasionally the vehicle will continue to respond with invalid or no data.

Prior to August 1, 2016, a vehicle could pass the BAR-OIS inspection if this condition continued; however, that is no longer the case.

What has changed?

toyota-drive-cycle-obd-readiness-monitor-smog-checkEffective August 1, 2016, if a vehicle continues to respond with improper OBD II monitor information, the vehicle will fail the inspection.

If a vehicle in the following list fails for invalid OBD II monitor information, it should be referred to the BAR Referee. Vehicles not included in the list will most likely require repairs.

  • 2004 Volvo C70 HPT
  • 2004 Volvo C70 LPT
  • 2004 Porsche Boxster S
  • 2004 Porsche Boxster
  • 2003 Porsche Boxster

 

BAR Repair Assistance Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqobRosEZf4

For more information about he Bureau of Automotive Repair Repair Assistance Program, visit the Consumer Assistance Program website, or call Just Smogs® in Huntington Beach at (714) 596-1019 for all your smog check needs. You can also make an appointment for your next smog check by clicking on the above link.

Check OBD II Monitor Readiness Without A Scan Tool

Image of instrument cluster including "Check Engine" lightIt is possible to check OBD II monitor readiness on many late model vehicles without connecting a scan tool. This can often be necessary in order to determine if your car is ready for its California smog inspection.

What is OBD II monitor readiness?

On 1996 and newer model year vehicles, the on board diagnostic system (OBDII) performs up to eleven diagnostic checks of vehicle emission control systems.  These checks are performed in the background during normal driving and are designed not to interfere with vehicle performance or safety.

If a fault is detected, the power train control module (PCM – The computer) illuminates the malfunction indicator light (MIL – Check Engine – Service Vehicle Soon).

If the PCM loses power for any reason (Including a disconnected or depleted battery), or if diagnostic trouble codes are cleared using a diagnostic scan tool, readiness monitors will indicate an incomplete, or not ready, status.

In most cases, a vehicle with incomplete readiness monitors will not pass the California smog inspection (See New Readiness Monitor Standards For OBD II Functional Inspection).

Driving the vehicle under conditions that meet the monitor enabling criteria should complete most OBD II monitors.  This is usually accomplished after fifty to one-hundred miles of normal driving.

How to check monitors without a scan tool

In most cases, the correct procedure is outlined in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. Consult your owner’s manual for information specific to the car you drive.

However, the following procedures are presented as examples. They may not apply to your specific vehicle.

Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Vehicles

To determine if readiness OBD II monitors are complete:

  1. Turn the ignition key to the “on” position for 15 seconds without cranking the engine.
  2. If the “Service Engine Soon” light blinks eight times, one or more readiness monitors are incomplete.
  3. If the service engine soon indicator stays on solid, all readiness monitors are complete.

This procedure was included in the Owner’s Manual for a 2012 Ford Focus. This same procedure may apply to other models and model year Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles.

For Jeep, Chrysler and Dodge

The owner’s manual states that the vehicle has a simple ignition key actuated test, which you can use prior to going to the test station. To check if your vehicle’s OBD II system is ready, you must do the following:

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, but do not crank or start the engine. If you crank or start the engine, you will have to start this test over.
  2. As soon as you turn the ignition switch to the ON position, you will see the MIL (Check Engine Light) symbol come on as part of a normal bulb check.
  3. Approximately 15 seconds later, one of two things will happen:
    1. The MIL will flash for about 10 seconds and then return to being fully illuminated until you turn OFF the ignition or start the engine. This means that your vehicle’s OBD II system is not ready and you should not proceed to the smog check station.
    2. The MIL will not flash at all and will remain fully illuminated until you turn OFF the ignition or start the engine. This means that your vehicle’s OBD II system is ready and you can proceed to the smog check station.
Honda/Acura

To check if the readiness codes are set, turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, without starting the engine. The MIL will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness monitors are set. If it blinks five times, the readiness monitors are not set.

Interstate Batteries at Just Smogs®

Battery racks containingt Intertate brand car and truck batteries.

Just Smogs now sells and installs America’s leading brand of car and truck batteries.

You might say that there’s more than Just Smogs® at Just Smogs® in Huntington Beach.

As a Star Certified State of California Licensed Test and Repair Smog Check Station, Just Smogs® now provides a full range of services including preventive maintenance & emissions repairs.

Just Smogs® is proud to announce that we now carry Outrageously Dependable Interstate Batteries.

Of course, we’re still your number one choice for fast and dependable smog inspections.  Call us at (714) 596-1019, or click click on the link, for an appointment.

 

1996 to 2002 Toyota OBD II Catalyst Monitor Readiness Drive Patterns

The catalyst monitor on many Toyota vehicles can be difficult to complete.  That’s why it’s important to follow the Toyota recommended drive cycle after performing actions that are known to clear your Toyota’s computer memory.

Remember, all on-board diagnostic monitors are cleared when the battery is disconnected, or when the powertrain control module (PCM) is cleared with a scan tool.

CATALYST MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
  2. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
  3. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes.  It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
  4. It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.

toyota-drive-cycle-obd-readiness-monitor-smog-check

1996 to 2002 Toyota OBD II Monitor Readiness Drive Patterns

Swarming Honey Bees

Honey bee swarming season is right around the corner.  In some areas it has already begun.

Honey Bee Swarm

Last year, this swarm suddenly appeared in the Bohemian Orchid tree in my front yard. They were gone in 48 hours.

While impressive, and maybe a little frightening (Okay maybe very frightening), bee swarms are usually harmless if left unmolested; however with the increased presence of Africanised honey bee colonies in Southern California, you should always keep a safe distance between yourself and any bee swarm you encounter.

Why do honey bees swarm?

The simple answer is often overpopulation.  When a hive reaches capacity, a new queen is formed and she, along with a few thousand worker bees will pick a nice day to leave home and start their search for a new place to build a hive.

Along the way, the swarm will usually chose a safe place to rest for a couple of days.

While the hive rests, scouts search for a permanent hive location. In the meantime, the queen emits powerful pheromones that cause the worker bees to swarm around her in a protective ball.

Within a day or two the swarm will usually depart as quickly as it arrived.

What if it is not a rest stop?

Honey Bee Swarm

This year, a smaller swarm appeared on the same branch, in the same tree. They were also gone within 48 hours.

Bees resting in the branches of a tree, side of a house, or other exposed location will typically move on within seventy-two hours.

On the other hand, bees that move into the walls of a house, hollow of a tree, or other protected location are probably there to stay.

It’s time to call a professional!

You should NEVER attempt to evict a bee swarm by spraying it with water, smoke, chemical spray, or any other means. Instead, contact an experienced beekeeper.

You can find lists of skilled beekeepers who can handle swarm removal on the Orange County and Los Angeles County Beekeepers Association websites.

Of course, if your vehicle needs a smog inspection (STAR Station, “Regular Smog”, etc), don’t call a beekeeper, instead call Just Smogs in Huntington Beach at (714) 596-1019.  You can also book an appointment online by clicking here.